![]() Give it a good checking over before you part with your money so that you are less likely to get any rude surprises. Those ol' slow-banger D7's were as reliable a tractor as was built back in those days and not much has come close to them since either. The bare tractor would back out of wet spots that the dozer complete with blade would just bury itself in nose down as you tried to back out. It was sometimes possible in such a situation, if you had nothing else around to give you a pull, to disconnect the blade at the push trunnions and maybe let the blade lift rope go too and back the bare tractor out to firm ground then pull the blade out and re-attach it. Just be careful in wet areas 'cos they tend to drive in just fine and then not back out. Mind you, most dozers of that era were a little nose heavy 'cos crawler tractor designers were still coming to grips with the change from crawlers being pulling machines used for drawbar work to crawlers being pushing machines used for dozer work.Īs I said, it's not something that you can't get used to fairly easily. I'll keep you posted.Yes, the early D7's, RD7 through to 17A/D7C-D were a little nose-heavy but it wasn't something that you couldn't get used to pretty easily. On the other hand as I'm driving tomorrow morning down the coast of Maine sipping a Tim Horten's coffee, I may decide that everything I have just stated is bogus, and that I need to rethink everything. If the undercarriage looks good, if the motor sounds good, if there are no leaks, etc., etc., then I think I might go for it. If I don't buy it and don't find an alternative machine, then I'll have to wait and that's something I don't think I want to do. If I buy the D7 and fix the steering problem, then I'm ready to start working my land. I really want to start working the ground as soon as I can. In about a months time the logging of my property will be finished. At this moment my gut is telling me that I could do everything I need to do with D7 with the straight blade, but it may take longer and I will have to work harder at it. And I don't think I could afford the shipping if I were to buy out of state after finding a better bulldozer. I don't think I want to wait for the "right" dozer to come along. (I didn't ask him about a ripper - if he has one of those for the D7 I would love to have it.) And he's got another D7 with a tilt blade but I doubt I could afford it. He's got a root rake too, that supposedly fits the D7. He owns about 30 of them, and sold a D8 last week. He's a merchant marine and his hobby is collecting bull dozers. I just got off the phone with the guy who is selling the D7. ![]() Will I be able to do that to some degree with a non-tilting blade on a D7C? Should I consider D6's as well? One of the things I am hoping to do with whatever dozer I end up buying, is to be able to push small to medium sized softwood stumps out of the ground. we are very short handed at the moment and I can't spare the personal. Questions and Answers Q: any one available to help start (2/4/22 8:26 PM) A: No sir. It will take a bit of work to get it going, as it hasn't been started in two years. The other know fact is that this particular dozer comes with a straight blade without tilting capabilities. This dozer was in good working condition the last time it was used. If it turns out that it needs a new steering clutch, is that a repair that can be done by someone with little knowledge and experience in the maintenance and repair of bulldozers? The assumption is that I would seek out help when doing the repairs. The owner says he thinks it's a linkage problem. What little I know about this particular 7C is that it runs fine except one of the tracks won't engage when trying to make a turn (not sure what side doesn't turn). Which of the two is the heaviest? It's not apparent to me when I search the internet. I have noticed there are a lot of low cost deals to be had on these two models - older D6's and D7's. I had the starter rebuilt and purchased new batteries. Initially I thought the starter was bad because it smoked when I tried to turn the engine over. CURRECTLY I DON'T HAVE THE PART WITH ME OR THE SER. BUT ARE THERE DIFFERENT MODELS OF EISEMANN MAG'S FOR THIS MACHINE. ![]() The transmission identification number I have been told is 4H8440. D7 17A With Stuck Engine was created by RootRakeKid. RAY ZAMISKA Regular Joined: Posts: 50 Report to Moderator Posted: Sat 4:02 pm Post subject: D7-3T MAGNETO HAVE A 1944, D7,3T WITH AN EISEMANN MAGNETO, CURRENTLY IN NEED OF A NEW/WORKING MAGNETO. is 17A5871 which supposedly is a 1956 machine made in Peoria. It has an electric start and the Serial No. This Sunday I'm hoping to look at a Caterpillar D 7C that is for sale.
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